
If you could journey deep into the heart of the Yucatán you would discover a labyrinth of underground rivers, caves where stalactites and stalagmites are sometimes mirrored in still dark lakes, and cenotes or sinkholes with crystal-clear blue waters.
These natural wells were the only source of fresh water in ancient times and the Maya believed that cenotes and caves were the gateway to the underworld, the abode of the gods and considered them sacred places. Priests conducted rituals in the caves or on the shores of cenotes to honor the gods who resided there. They threw offerings of pottery, copal incense, jewelry and occasionally even humans into the depths.
No rivers in the Yucatán?
The Yucatán Peninsula is a vast shelf of limestone that emerged from the sea during the Pleistocene period. Limestone is porous and there are no surface rivers in the area because rainwater filters through fissures in the rock until it reaches the water table. Over time the water erodes the rock, enlarging crevices and creating caves and channels through which underground rivers flow. When the roof of a cave collapses, a cenote or sinkhole is formed. Some cenotes form in underground galleries, some are still partially covered by the original cave roof, others resemble shallow lakes and others are like wells with sheer walls.
Over 3,000 cenotes have been identified in the state although only 1,400 have actually been studied. Biologists, geologists and archaeologists have made some fascinating discoveries including endemic species of blind fish, unique crystal formations, fossils, Mayan tombs and offerings.
While some cenotes are suitable for swimming, always check before you do so as they can also be dangerous, never venture into a cenote alone. Cave diving trips are available for certified cave divers.
Cenote Dzitnup
This pool of spectacular turquoise water in a cave is the state’s most famous cenote. Located seven kilometers to the west of Valladolid.
Balancanché Cave
Located six kilometers to the east of Chichén Itzá, Balancanché was a sacred place for ancient Mayan priests who visited the cave to perform rites in honor of Chaac, the rain god. Incense burners, statues and other offerings were found when the caves were first explored and the huge stalagmite formation in the main chamber resembles the ceiba or Mayan sacred tree. The site boasts a small museum and a botanical garden and as you explore the cave you’ll hear a narrated tour in English, Spanish and French.
Loltún Caves
The largest cave system in the state, Loltún is in the Puuc hills to the south of Mérida. Loltún means “Stone flower” in Maya, a reference to the stalactite and stalagmite formations in the different galleries, some of which have roof openings letting in the light and vegetation.
Archaeologists have discovered that nomadic hunters sheltered in the caves 7,000 years ago, leaving us the evidence of cave paintings and the bones of mammoth, bison and deer. The Maya later visited the caves to obtain clay and stone and to make ritual offerings to the gods. They also became a refuge for Mayan non-combatants during the nineteenth century Caste War.
Local people offer guided tours of the caves (please tip them at the end of your visit). Your guide will point out strange rock formations, metates or stone grinding tablets, murals and haltunes or natural reservoirs. Loltún is located 110 km to the south of Mérida en route to Oxkutzcab.
Cenote Ikil
This impressive well is about 40 meters deep and to reach water level you descend a staircase that winds down one side of the wall. Swimming is permitted, vegetation hangs down over the limestone and there are several small waterfalls. Located three kilometers from Chichén Itzá.
Tzabnah Caves
These caves and cenotes – there are 13 of them – are located in the village of Tecoh, 40 km from Mérida, on the Convent Route.
Calcehtok
These caves were also used by the Maya and ancient pottery, arrowheads, obsidian knives, burials and stone reservoirs have been found in their depths. You need a guide to explore the caves. Calcehtok is located near the archaeological site of Oxkintok and are accessible from Hwy 184.
